Cornwall in the autumn 2017

Wednesday 4 th October 2017 Early morning start with packing of the car. We got away from St Ives soon after 9 and made our way up to Paignton with the weather improving during the morning. We made good time and hung about a bit waiting for Martin to come home from work. It was lovely to see the flat where they have been for 2 and a half years – in a bit of a state of turmoil as they were waiting to have carpets laid in the bedrooms. With dog, we were driven by Martin to Berry Head, which is the point at the south end of Torbay, above Brixham, and where there is an excellent café. We had a bit of a mooch round the point after lunch, and the scenery was spectacular – blue seas and skies and masses of them. We could see the cliffs of Sidmouth and beyond, towards where Andrew lives. Looking south, the sun was sparkling on the sea and we watched several boats and ships out on the water. Back at the flat, we had to leave so that both of them could get off to do a couple of jobs. W...

Tuesday 3 rd October In line with the weather during the rest of this holiday, today was beautiful and sunny and stayed so all day. Out down to the harbour, picking up bagels on the way. On to the end of the harbour, where the tide was as far out as we had seen it. Lots of people about in the sunshine. Round the end and up to the coastguard lookout from where the views were tremendous – the best so far since we’ve been in St Ives – right up beyond Godrevy Point towards Newquay. The path then goes down onto Porthmeor beach, which was lovely – crashing blue seas with some people starting to surf. Up the cliff onto the path again and started round towards the south. The path is easy walking for quite a way, then the tarmac runs out and it becomes stonier. Eventually, as we got further away from the town, it got very muddy in places. Stopped for a drink at Clodgy Point and thought we might continue for another couple of miles, but it did get harder work so we stopped before that fo...

Monday 2 nd October 2017 Today started bright and sunny and we packed our bags to head off by train to Penzance and then a walk to Marazion, to visit St Michael’s Mount. The little train to St Erth was on-time and quick, as was the second one on to Penzance. Getting off the train, we struggled a bit to find the point where we could join the coastal path because we ignored the sign and decided to walk outside the sea wall, it being less grim that walking between two concrete walls. Mistake – the path was closed about 400 yards along and we had to retrace our steps. The path to Marazion is not very interesting, apart from the hazy views across to St Michael’s Mount – it was too hazy to see much beyond Penzance, so could only just make out the shapes of the Lizard and Land’s End. It was a bit of a trudge, at the end of which, we bought warm, quite good pasties. On to the village to catch a little ferry across to the island – the causeway being closed. All the ferries seem to be ma...

Sunday 1 st October 2017 Woke to rain, as forecast. Attempted to have Facetime call with Robin and girls but the internet connection is not reliable enough. Walked down into the town to explore the harbour where we found excellent coffee overlooking the incoming tide and boats. The sand is very yellow and pretty. Up the hill to the Barbara Hepworth museum, which was beautiful. We’d looked on-line to see what to expect. The entrance room is quite small and gives a biography and description of her major works. Out into the quite small garden, where many works can be seen and they are stunning. I decided that a limestone, upright piece was the one I would take home. Back up to the house to collect the car – with a fight to get out of the garage. Our neighbour appeared as we were coming out – she lives in Banbury but owns the flat here and she is here to clean it after a long let. She was a bit inclined to natter. It was still raining as we drove up the coast through Gwithian, ...

Saturday 30 th September 2017 Awake ridiculously early again, we pottered about having breakfast, doing the final packing and looking round for the last time. The weather this morning was a bit colder but dry so far. It’s due to rain this afternoon. We didn’t see any sign all week of our hosts. Drove to the Coop for some supplies at St Blazey, then on to Wheal Martyn, near St Austell for some culture – learning about the china clay industry history.   The first call was at the café for a reviving coffee. The tour starts with some history of how china clay was discovered as a potential material for porcelain, by a local apothecary, although it had had earlier uses in the area. The extraction turned into a massive industry, the resulting waste from which has completely altered the landscape. The pointed tips are all old – nowadays, they make more of an effort to create natural shapes. The tour carries on up to the Victorian workings, which are quite derelict – the choice was ma...

Friday 29 th September 2017 Today we stayed local with the weather clear and low tide in the early morning. After a slow start, we walked up the steep hill to the village church, dedicated to St Sampson, and on the Saints Way as a notable church. It’s very old, quite plain and simple and beautifully light. There is a lovely picture hanging, which is part painted and part embroidery, done in 2015 by local people and celebrating the apple-growing year. This area had a number of orchards in the past and was a great centre of cider-making. There are several apple trees below the studio, which are covered in fruit. On up the hill to the junction with the “main” road into the village, and down to the riverside, where we sat for a while watching a few people coming and going on the water. We haven’t seen a lot of wildlife, although the owls were at it again later. Swans in the entrance to the inlet opposite Golant. Into the Fishermans Inn for a cider – very expensive, strong and quite...