Polperro, Cotehele and much rain

Wednesday 27^th September

Today promised rain and plenty of it. It had started to drizzle before we left the house, but we had to make the most of the day.

We started by driving down to Fowey and taking the car across the river on the ferry, which was waiting for us. The road takes a very steep left bend immediately and then carries on away from the village. We could have made our way down miles of narrow lanes, but followed the signs to Polperro along the B roads, which made more sense, although it was a lot longer.

By the time we got to Polperro, it was starting to rain. There is only one car park, where we had to buy three hours, which was a bit annoying, as all we wanted to do was have a look at the place, then go on to Looe. However, we ended up spending a coupe of hours there, walking down the main street to the harbour, then round it, taking photos. A lot had been done to attract tourists that was rather twee, but fundamentally, it’s still possible to see how the village must have been like when it was a proper working place. There are still working boats, but not many.

We had hot chocolates at the museum café – very sweet and not good. On the way back up to the car, I called at a patchwork and quilting shop and had a natter with the owner, buying a couple of fat quarters as we were leaving.

I let the satnav take over directions for Cotehele – somewhere we could get a meal and out of the rain. It was quite a long way and the last few miles were down narrow tortuous lanes. We found the place and had a slightly disappointing meal in the dramatic barn which is the NT restaurant. Looking at the flyer showed us that the estate is quite extensive, with formal and informal gardens, large orchards, a flour mill and the quay.

We decided to start with the house, some of which was built in the 14^th Century. It was very interesting, beginning with the grand hall where we were accosted by a volunteer, who explained that we wouldn’t be able to see a lot of the hall because they were short-staffed. It was rather reminiscent of Hardwick, though not on the same scale. The owners kept it as it was, after they built themselves another house elsewhere. The dining room, as were others, was lined with tapestries and there were pieces of furniture throughout, that are known to have been there for centuries.

The kitchen was small, like the one an Haddon and the last room we saw was a Victorian addition by the last countess, who had the use of the house as a dowager house.

Out into the garden, which is coming to the end of its summer – round into the orchards and then down to the mill. By this time, the rain was bucketing down, but being in a valley, the wind wasn’t making it unbearable. We did a whistle-stop tour of the mill, where the wheel was still and baking not on today. All the volunteers wer gathered in the reception room.

Along the valley bottom to the quay and to have tea and cake in the tea-room. Ian found treacle tart made with at least some black treacle and stem ginger.

A real struggle of a trudge back up the steep hill to the car in continuing rain and then a long drive home in wet clothes. The rain calmed down by the time we got back, but drizzled on through the evening.

9,779 steps only,  quiche at Cotehele and foccacia and pate at the studio.